Nomach path information

The Black Hmong (Hmong Den) The Black Hmong are a subgroup of the Hmong people. They mainly live around Sa Pa in Lao Cai Province. Sa Pa is home to Mount Fansipan, the highest peak in Southeast Asia at 3,143 meters. The Black Hmong are the community that lives at the highest altitudes of this mountain, which is why they are often said to live above the clouds. Their most distinctive feature is their traditional attire, entirely black from head to toe. While other Hmong groups usually wear brightly embroidered clothes, the Black Hmong wear black outfits that are elegant and striking in their simplicity. Women wear indigo-dyed black skirts reaching to the knees, along with shirts that have round embroidered sleeves. Over this, they tie two black aprons made of hemp fabric that has been beaten to a glossy finish-one in front and one at the back. On their legs, they wrap black leggings. Their hair is twisted into a bun on top of the head and covered with a black, cylindrical, open-top hat. Large silver earrings complete the look. When traveling in the Sa Pa region, it is common to see graceful and lively Black Hmong girls dressed entirely in black, carrying baskets on their backs and holding umbrellas, as if emerging from the clouds. Black Hmong girls dressed in black Mount Fansipan and Black Hmong villages Terraced rice fields in the Sa Pa region Black Hmong villages at the foot of Mount Fansipan Young men go hunting birds at night. They bring along a tamed bird, open its cage deep in the forest, and the bird calls out to lure its friends to come. Wherever you go around the world, the way children play looks much the same Like other Hmong groups, the women do household chores and most farming work. Their lives are impoverished, and sometimes they go to Sa Pa town to sell handicrafts or beg. In Sa Pa and the surrounding large villages, markets are held every Sunday. The Black Hmong also come here to sell handicrafts and buy household necessities.

Introducing the Lolo people you may encounter on the Bumpy Route journey across Nomach Path. The Lolo people live in areas such as Dong Van and Meo Vac in Ha Giang Province, as well as in Cao Bang Province and Muong Khuong in Lao Cai Province. They migrated from Yunnan Province, China, in two groups during the 5th and 18th centuries, respectively. The Lolo population in Vietnam is about 3,200, and their language belongs to the Tibeto-Burman family. Each family lineage is divided into several branches, and often a single lineage forms an entire village. As a result, they worship their common ancestors together and demonstrate strong cohesion. The family is patrilineal, with the father making important decisions; however, as long as the mother is alive, the influence of the maternal uncle cannot be ignored. The village's eldest person becomes the village head and oversees affairs within the kinship group. In the past, child marriage was common, but it has now disappeared, while the custom of levirate marriage is still practiced. During festivals, men and women dance in a circle, sometimes singing as they dance. If there are no musical instruments, everyone beats their farming tools while dancing. Young people often sing lyrical round songs, and the songs of the Lolo people are composed with five tones. Every year, they hold a ritual to pray to the God of the Land for a good harvest, and when the plowing season ends, each family sacrifices to the Land God. Lolo women wear long black skirts with wide hems, decorated with bands of various colors. They also wear short-necked vests that are open at the front. This vest is decorated with triangular pieces of fabric in various colors and is sometimes adorned with dangling glass beads. On their heads, they wear turbans decorated with colorful patterns and tassels. Their villages are often located in dry and well-ventilated areas of high mountains, because the Lolo people like extensive forests and consider them sacred. There are both stilt houses and ground-level houses, and inside the home, an altar for the "house spirit" is placed against the back wall of the central compartment. Based on the central compartment where the altar is located, the bedroom is on the right side and equipped with a fireplace. The left compartment is the kitchen, where household items are stored, and another altar for the ancestors is placed. The Lolo people in the highlands still practice slash-and-burn cultivation, and next to these fields, they also farm terraced rice paddies. They mainly grow rice and corn as staple crops. Handicrafts are less developed; they mainly make household items such as baskets from bamboo or do just enough weaving to meet domestic needs. The Lolo people believe in two deities: Mit Do, the world's creator, and Ket Do, the ruler of the land. Since these deities live in the forest, the Lolo considers the destruction of forests the greatest taboo. Therefore, even when they farm, they try to avoid harming nature as much as possible. The expression of a woman pounding grain in a mortar is filled with joy rather than hardship. The Lolo have long possessed their own script, but very few people can decipher it today. Many ancient legends have been orally transmitted, and their spiritual life and traditional worldview are vividly reflected.  

The Last Day of Busking – Fansipan On the final day of our busking journey, we climbed Fansipan, the highest peak in Vietnam. When we left Sapa, the sky was bright and clear, but as we reached halfway up the mountain, thick fog enveloped everything. It felt as though Fansipan would not easily yield its summit. Yet, as we approached the terminal near the peak, the mist slowly sank beneath the cable cars. Though the summit was unclear, the view opened enough for us to enjoy the majestic scenery. Since my first climb in 2008, whether on foot or by cable car, I’ve been here more than a hundred times. Still, the days I witnessed a crystal-clear summit can be counted on one hand. Today, once again, the blue sky did not appear. That left me with a lingering regret and a unique, unforgettable feeling. Climbing always brings both experience and a sense of accomplishment. Standing on the highest mountain of Indochina, looking down over Sapa town and the endless layers of mountains, the exhaustion of the climb vanishes, replaced only by joy and pride. After descending, we returned to Hanoi and held our final performance. Though the 5 days 4 nights journey passed in the blink of an eye, it left behind a profound afterglow. It was our very first busking trip, and there were many shortcomings. But within those shortcomings, we found lessons—on what to prepare next time, how to choose the right places, moments, and equipment. Though I did not step directly onto the stage, the resonance and meaning that the performances carried were deeply felt. The moments where music met travel were warm, creating precious memories that will remain in our hearts for a long time. To everyone who joined us on this journey: may the joy and happiness you felt through the music stay with you always, and may your lives ahead be filled with health and happiness. And someday, on another road, with new music and new laughter, I hope we’ll meet again.  

Fansipan (3,143m), the highest peak of Indochina, is a sacred mountain of Vietnam. Morning in Sa Pa begins from where that majestic peak looms, half-hidden, half-revealed in the drifting clouds. I have visited countless times, yet the scenery never grows old. The farther away you look, the more beautiful Sa Pa’s morning appears. When seen up close, the world feels filled with competition and struggle. But when you step back, it softens, dissolving into a sense of ease. That is precisely what Sa Pa offers. Today, I once again started up my motorbike with a refreshing spirit. In Sa Pa, traditional villages are even more precious than the famous viewpoints. Cat Cat, Lao Chai, Ta Van, and Ta Phin are among the most notable. This morning, I visited the first three, leaving out Ta Phin until later. Heavy with ripening grain, the terraced rice fields were already glowing golden. Autumn’s abundance filled the valleys: the hands of farmers threshing rice, buffalo relaxing in the mud, and ducks with bellies full. A rich energy unique to this season spread across the fields. With the sunlight shining, even my steps felt lighter. I ended the morning at Cat Cat, the representative H’Mong village, where I had lunch. In the afternoon, I rode to Ta Phin, the traditional village of the Dao people, to wrap up the last leg of my motorbike journey. It was bittersweet to part with the young men from Mu Cang Chai who had ridden with me for three days. Perhaps our bond had grown deeper because we had shared the same motorbike all day, shoulders pressed and arms around each other’s waists. A motorbike tour is truly a journey that narrows the distance between people. Tomorrow, I will climb to the summit of Fansipan. The scenery of Sa Pa – more beautiful the farther away it is – will finally greet me from the very highest place.