Dong Van

Hidden amidst the majestic rocky plateau of Ha Giang, the Dong Van Ancient Quarter exudes a serene and nostalgic charm. Golden earthen walls and yin-yang tiled roofs lean against one another, weathering countless seasons of mist and wind. Stepping into this place feels like entering a realm where time stands still at the borderland. Morning arrives with a thin veil of mist draping softly over the old rooftops. The sound of pounding buckwheat cakes and the gentle calls of street vendors break the tranquil silence. Everything unfolds tenderly, like a gentle melody awakening the new day. As sunlight filters through the roof tiles, moss and ancient patterns glow warmly under its touch. In a humble corner café, laughter fills the air as locals and travelers share stories. The warmth of a steaming bowl of pho and a fragrant cup of coffee soothes the crisp mountain chill. By afternoon, soft golden rays fall gently, turning the ancient town into a painting of rustic beauty. Ethnic costumes in vibrant colors stroll through narrow lanes, adding splashes of life to the quiet stone backdrop. Sometimes, the soulful sound of a Mong flute drifts through the air, enchanting every wandering heart. Night descends, and warm yellow lantern light dances across stone walls, filling the town with dreamy mystery. Travelers gather around crackling fires, savoring thắng cố and warm corn wine brewed with forest herbs. Those simple moments feel deeply comforting, like the mountains wrapping you in their embrace. The Dong Van Ancient Quarter is not merely a destination - it is a living treasure of culture and memories in the frontier land. People come and go, yet its sincerity and rustic charm continue to linger in every soul. Anyone who visits carries with them the peaceful echoes of this stone kingdom, forever remembered and never forgotten.

Dong Van Karst Plateau in Ha Giang Province is one of the most remarkable landscapes of the northern mountains. It stands out with its vast stretches of majestic limestone mountains. In 2010, UNESCO recognized the plateau as a Global Geopark. The scenery of the plateau resembles a magnificent natural painting with endless ranges of rocky mountains. Amidst the cold gray stones, the earthen walled houses of ethnic minorities appear warm and lively. The harmony between nature and human life creates a unique and unforgettable beauty. Besides the limestone mountains, the plateau is also home to valleys and terraced rice fields of stunning beauty. During the harvest season, the stony land suddenly glows with golden hues. It reflects the resilient vitality of people living in such a harsh environment. The Dong Van Karst Plateau also preserves distinctive cultural values. Ethnic groups such as the Mong, LoLo, Pu Peo, and Tay live here with diverse festivals and traditions. Visitors admire the breathtaking scenery and have the chance to explore a rich cultural life. Today, Dong Van Karst Plateau has become an appealing destination for those who love nature and adventure. A journey here is both exciting and meaningful. The plateau forever stands as the pride of Vietnam’s northernmost frontier.

Ma Pi Leng Pass is one of the most famous mountain passes in northern Vietnam, located on the Happiness Road connecting two districts, Meo Vac and Dong Van, in Ha Giang province. The pass is about 20 kilometers long and nearly 1,200 meters above sea level. It is one of the “Four Great Passes” of Vietnam, loved by many for exploration and adventure. Ma Pi Leng stands out with its winding hairpin bends running along steep rocky cliffs. People often call it the “King Of Passes” because of its majestic beauty, challenging roads, and difficulty in traveling through. The pass is not only an important transportation route but also an attractive destination for many domestic and international tourists. From the summit, visitors can enjoy a panoramic view of the deep valley below, where the Nho Que River winds like a green silk ribbon. The natural scenery here is wild and majestic, leaving visitors in awe. The fresh air and diverse natural landscapes are also great highlights of Ma Pi Leng. Ma Pi Leng is not only a symbol of the Ha Giang limestone plateau but also a historical witness to the arduous trade routes of the past. The pass has played an important role in economic development and cultural exchange among the ethnic groups of the highlands. Therefore, Ma Pi Leng is not only beautiful but also carries deep cultural and historical values.

Introducing the Lolo people you may encounter on the Bumpy Route journey across Nomach Path. The Lolo people live in areas such as Dong Van and Meo Vac in Ha Giang Province, as well as in Cao Bang Province and Muong Khuong in Lao Cai Province. They migrated from Yunnan Province, China, in two groups during the 5th and 18th centuries, respectively. The Lolo population in Vietnam is about 3,200, and their language belongs to the Tibeto-Burman family. Each family lineage is divided into several branches, and often a single lineage forms an entire village. As a result, they worship their common ancestors together and demonstrate strong cohesion. The family is patrilineal, with the father making important decisions; however, as long as the mother is alive, the influence of the maternal uncle cannot be ignored. The village's eldest person becomes the village head and oversees affairs within the kinship group. In the past, child marriage was common, but it has now disappeared, while the custom of levirate marriage is still practiced. During festivals, men and women dance in a circle, sometimes singing as they dance. If there are no musical instruments, everyone beats their farming tools while dancing. Young people often sing lyrical round songs, and the songs of the Lolo people are composed with five tones. Every year, they hold a ritual to pray to the God of the Land for a good harvest, and when the plowing season ends, each family sacrifices to the Land God. Lolo women wear long black skirts with wide hems, decorated with bands of various colors. They also wear short-necked vests that are open at the front. This vest is decorated with triangular pieces of fabric in various colors and is sometimes adorned with dangling glass beads. On their heads, they wear turbans decorated with colorful patterns and tassels. Their villages are often located in dry and well-ventilated areas of high mountains, because the Lolo people like extensive forests and consider them sacred. There are both stilt houses and ground-level houses, and inside the home, an altar for the "house spirit" is placed against the back wall of the central compartment. Based on the central compartment where the altar is located, the bedroom is on the right side and equipped with a fireplace. The left compartment is the kitchen, where household items are stored, and another altar for the ancestors is placed. The Lolo people in the highlands still practice slash-and-burn cultivation, and next to these fields, they also farm terraced rice paddies. They mainly grow rice and corn as staple crops. Handicrafts are less developed; they mainly make household items such as baskets from bamboo or do just enough weaving to meet domestic needs. The Lolo people believe in two deities: Mit Do, the world's creator, and Ket Do, the ruler of the land. Since these deities live in the forest, the Lolo considers the destruction of forests the greatest taboo. Therefore, even when they farm, they try to avoid harming nature as much as possible. The expression of a woman pounding grain in a mortar is filled with joy rather than hardship. The Lolo have long possessed their own script, but very few people can decipher it today. Many ancient legends have been orally transmitted, and their spiritual life and traditional worldview are vividly reflected.